So you've found a bargain wood heater on eBay, but the REAL costs are only just beginning.
New Smoke Emission Legislation
The amendments made to the Protection of the Environment Operations Act 1997 (POEO Act) by the Protection of the Environment Operations Amendment Act 2005 provide for the issuing of smoke abatement notices. These amendments commenced on 1 May 2006.
In essence, a smoke abatement notice can be issued to the occupier of a residential premises within 7 days of the offence occuring.
Orignal From: WOOD HEATERS - Expensive Mistakes for Some Buyers
Wednesday, July 29, 2009
6 easy steps to Buying a Cricket Bat
I've found that Ebay is one of the best places for buying a cricket bat. Like most things in life and on Ebay the more you pay the higher quality the bat is. There are a number of Rules I recommend you take when choosing a bat. These are:1. Make sure it is the right bat for you. Go to a cricket store (e.g Kingsgrove or Greg Chappell cricket shops) and get a feel for the bats. Decide what size and weight is best for you before buying your bat. Also if you have some friends with bats, see if you can use them in a nets session to see which style of bat you play best with.
Orignal From: 6 easy steps to Buying a Cricket Bat
Orignal From: 6 easy steps to Buying a Cricket Bat
Natural Crystals - Fake or Genuine?
Natural and Man Made Crystals
We are often asked which crystals are natural and which are manmade, treated or enhanced.
Orignal From: Natural Crystals - Fake or Genuine?
We are often asked which crystals are natural and which are manmade, treated or enhanced.
Orignal From: Natural Crystals - Fake or Genuine?
HORSE RUGS - HOW TO BUY A QUALITY RUG
HORSE RUGS - WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
Hi, having made and sold quality horse rugs for over 20 years, I feel I can help those who wish to buy items through Ebay - or in person - with a few simple tips. One of the most frequent statements from customers in my retail store was "My horse is hard on rugs, I just want a cheap one, as they don't last long". Oh, how wrong they are - if your horse is hard on rugs - buy the BEST one - you need it!!! This is why I still use Australian made Wool and a heavy quality 100% cotton.
SIZES
Orignal From: HORSE RUGS - HOW TO BUY A QUALITY RUG
Hi, having made and sold quality horse rugs for over 20 years, I feel I can help those who wish to buy items through Ebay - or in person - with a few simple tips. One of the most frequent statements from customers in my retail store was "My horse is hard on rugs, I just want a cheap one, as they don't last long". Oh, how wrong they are - if your horse is hard on rugs - buy the BEST one - you need it!!! This is why I still use Australian made Wool and a heavy quality 100% cotton.
SIZES
Orignal From: HORSE RUGS - HOW TO BUY A QUALITY RUG
What Size Bra Should You Be Wearing?
What Size Bra Should You Be Wearing?
Over 75% of Women today are wearing an ill fitting bra, this can
cause back ache, neck strain,
Orignal From: What Size Bra Should You Be Wearing?
Over 75% of Women today are wearing an ill fitting bra, this can
cause back ache, neck strain,
Orignal From: What Size Bra Should You Be Wearing?
How to make your own necklaces!
This is a simple step by step guide on how to make an eyecatching necklace even if you have no experience at all. Practically everything you need to get started can be purchased on ebay at great prices.
With the right tools, some creatvitiy and just a handful of beads you can make a necklace that
Orignal From: How to make your own necklaces!
With the right tools, some creatvitiy and just a handful of beads you can make a necklace that
Orignal From: How to make your own necklaces!
Buying A Mountain Bike on eBay
As the manager of a World Cup MTB team, I am often amazed at the huge number of bike brands and designs that exist all over the world. This makes it hard to sometimes establish which brand or bike is best for you, and can be even harder when you are trying to do it online.
The first step to deciding what Mountain Bike (MTB) is best for you is to work out what kind of riding you are likely to be doing. Just because it is an offroad bike, doesn't mean that every rider necessarily intends conquering their local mountains - so be honest and realistic with yourself about what you are likely to do on the bike - the rule of thumb is that more harsh the riding conditions the more costly the bike will need to be. MTB fit into a number of rough categories, each with their own traits:
1. Road/Path Commuting - Limited off-road, used for commuting to and from the shops. These bikes will be slightly heavier, possibly steel framed and will generally have low-spec brand, or even generic parts. May have front suspension forks, but these are more for show than actually serving a pupose (Buying Guide - $50 - $250)
2. Social Off-road - These bikes share some similarity with the Road/Path rides, but we start to see front suspension forks that ACTUALLY work (although not well) and greater use of name brands in the parts mix, such as Shimano. A bike in this category is probably used on- and off-road in a 60-40 ratio. (Buying Guide - $150 - $450)
3. Light XC - This is a bike that is designed for the off-road user and will have a parts mix that reflects this. You will find a low-end name brand front suspension fork and aluminium frame and wheel set and possible even disc brakes. Some bikes may even have rear suspension at this level, but be aware that a bad rear suspension bike is worse than a good hardtail bike in most cases. (Buying Guide - $150 - $650)
4. Heavy XC/Elite XC - Expect to see perhaps a zero added to the price tag on this category, and so it should be. These are serious bikes intended for a serious rider who considers them to be a piece of sporting equipment, rather than a means of transportation. SRAM, Shimano, Rock Shox, Manitou, Race Face... these are the brand names you would expect to see providing the parts mix and the frames should come from one of the name brands too (Haro, Trek, Giant, Avanti, Gary Fisher, Specialized, Bianchi, GT, Scott or perhaps one of the smaller European brands). These are the bikes where you should also start asking relevent questions about the type of riding the owner has done, the parts that have been replaced and when, how it has been serviced and where and whether it has been raced (not that this is a bad thing). (Buying Guide - $750 - $3000)
5. All Mountain - Like the higher priced XC bikes, All Mountain bikes are precision pieces of engineering - but the flip side to this is that these bikes tend to have been punished more by the rider, as this is there purpose. They come with 4" to 6" of suspension front and rear for a reason - they are jumped, crashed, pushed and strained. If you are buying a bike in this category it pays to ask for so photos of the frame in detail, if available, and you should focus on areas of known wear-and-tear - such as pivot points, frame welds, chain stays, etc. This is a category where information helps, so search out reviews and advice from the plethora of MTB chat sites and review boards. Look to see whether other riders have had issues and whether this might present a problem to you. (Buying Guide - $800 - $2500)
Orignal From: Buying A Mountain Bike on eBay
The first step to deciding what Mountain Bike (MTB) is best for you is to work out what kind of riding you are likely to be doing. Just because it is an offroad bike, doesn't mean that every rider necessarily intends conquering their local mountains - so be honest and realistic with yourself about what you are likely to do on the bike - the rule of thumb is that more harsh the riding conditions the more costly the bike will need to be. MTB fit into a number of rough categories, each with their own traits:
1. Road/Path Commuting - Limited off-road, used for commuting to and from the shops. These bikes will be slightly heavier, possibly steel framed and will generally have low-spec brand, or even generic parts. May have front suspension forks, but these are more for show than actually serving a pupose (Buying Guide - $50 - $250)
2. Social Off-road - These bikes share some similarity with the Road/Path rides, but we start to see front suspension forks that ACTUALLY work (although not well) and greater use of name brands in the parts mix, such as Shimano. A bike in this category is probably used on- and off-road in a 60-40 ratio. (Buying Guide - $150 - $450)
3. Light XC - This is a bike that is designed for the off-road user and will have a parts mix that reflects this. You will find a low-end name brand front suspension fork and aluminium frame and wheel set and possible even disc brakes. Some bikes may even have rear suspension at this level, but be aware that a bad rear suspension bike is worse than a good hardtail bike in most cases. (Buying Guide - $150 - $650)
4. Heavy XC/Elite XC - Expect to see perhaps a zero added to the price tag on this category, and so it should be. These are serious bikes intended for a serious rider who considers them to be a piece of sporting equipment, rather than a means of transportation. SRAM, Shimano, Rock Shox, Manitou, Race Face... these are the brand names you would expect to see providing the parts mix and the frames should come from one of the name brands too (Haro, Trek, Giant, Avanti, Gary Fisher, Specialized, Bianchi, GT, Scott or perhaps one of the smaller European brands). These are the bikes where you should also start asking relevent questions about the type of riding the owner has done, the parts that have been replaced and when, how it has been serviced and where and whether it has been raced (not that this is a bad thing). (Buying Guide - $750 - $3000)
5. All Mountain - Like the higher priced XC bikes, All Mountain bikes are precision pieces of engineering - but the flip side to this is that these bikes tend to have been punished more by the rider, as this is there purpose. They come with 4" to 6" of suspension front and rear for a reason - they are jumped, crashed, pushed and strained. If you are buying a bike in this category it pays to ask for so photos of the frame in detail, if available, and you should focus on areas of known wear-and-tear - such as pivot points, frame welds, chain stays, etc. This is a category where information helps, so search out reviews and advice from the plethora of MTB chat sites and review boards. Look to see whether other riders have had issues and whether this might present a problem to you. (Buying Guide - $800 - $2500)
Orignal From: Buying A Mountain Bike on eBay
SECOND HAND TURBO PARTS
I feel this guide would be worth wile to curb the flooding of buy it now "new" items from the second hand performance part market. Rther than curb the buy it now market, i fel it would enhance both ebays earning and the buyer if their was perhaps a second catagory on turbo and performance parts for SECOND HAND PARTS. Their are potential buyers out their who are only interested in second hand so called name brand products and theirfore i feel this catagory would be of significance to ebay. cheers
Orignal From: SECOND HAND TURBO PARTS
Orignal From: SECOND HAND TURBO PARTS
Knitting Machines
What sort to buy? Is it complete? Does it work?
Here's how to figure out what to look for, and what questions you might
need to ask before you bid.
First, get whatever advice is available
The best move you can make is to find some local machine knitters and get
their advice
before you start looking. Join a machine knitters guild or association. Most
states in Australia have one, and NZ machine knitters have a good active
national group. They will help you find machine knitters who meet close to
where you live.
Another way of contacting others is to join an email group which discusses
machine knitting, for example one of the Yahoo groups such as SouthKnit, or
visit reference sites such as Wikipedia, or browse the Machine Knitting
category on a web search engine or web directory. Try to visit a local
machine knitter and look at their machines to become more familiar with
their features. Most of us love encouraging people to get started!
Making some decisions
Would you prefer to buy a very cheap machine to use until you know
which features what you want, or to wait a bit longer for a well researched
purchase? Make sure that any
machine is complete and in good condition before buying, bargain or not.
There's no point battling with a machine that doesn't work right,
so a temporary first machine still needs to be in excellent working order,
though it's OK for it to be lacking in features.
If you have no-one to advise you, consider purchasing a standard punch card
machine, either Brother (e.g. models 820 - 860) or Singer (e.g. 321 - 360,
260, 280), which has been used recently and is complete and in excellent
condition. You don't want mechanical problems when
you're learning. Or any time for that matter! Bear in mind that a lot of
second hand punch card machines, like the Singer 321 for example, were made
as early as 1970. A machine that has been used through each of those 35
years might be in better working condition than one which has been stored in
a garage for a few years. Damp and dust are real bad news, and the slightest
bit of rust, especially on needles, is no good for you, unless you only want
the machine for spare parts.
Alternatives
Of course you might have a reason to buy a different type of machine, or an
older machine without automatic patterning. For example, we often see
Empisal 680 models for sale, and some of them are in great condition despite
their age. They have eight push-buttons instead of punch cards for stitch
patterning. Even if the buttons are still patterning properly (a common problem),
you will eventually find that re-setting the buttons before each pattern stitch
row becomes a
real pain. But for learning and doing plain stocking stitch,
they can be perfectly adequate for a while.
These machines can be found at very low prices indeed, and are often
discarded because not many people want them when there's so many cheap punch
card machines around. You might pick one up in mint condition for a song!
Has this particular machine been well looked after?
There are some clues as to whether a machine might be as well preserved as
suggested. Not always reliable, but they can add up to give you the picture.
How fastidious is the owner seem to be? Does it still have all manuals and
its original outer cardboard shell in reasonable condition for its age?
You'll need the manuals, and the preserved cardboard carton
indicates to you the owner's fastidiousness. Are its components / features
listed knowledgeably? Is it pictured hastily propped up for a sale, or as an
appreciated part of a lived-in looking room or craft space? Has the owner
enjoyed using it enough to purchase optional accessories? (Check their other
auctions too.) Ask how old it is,
where and how it has been stored, and how long since
it has been regularly used.
It doesn't hurt to write to the seller and get an idea of the machine's
history, and the seller's knowledge, before you bid. If they can confirm
that it is complete and working, or can tick off the parts against the
manual, or say they wouldn't have a clue, you can begin to
estimate your likelihood of happiness.
Making sure it's all there
Machines usually lose a little piece or two over the years, and can acquire
mysterious incompatible extras too! You can't knit with 95% of a knitting
machine.
The instruction books, or manuals, will itemise everything including
what should be in the plastic tool box. You might be offered a lot more than
what came with the new machine, e.g. extra patterned or blank punch cards
and a punch, books, patterns, wool winder, ribber, attachments, cones of yarn.
Sellers are usually very up front about their
knowledge level, so ask questions, calculate your risks, and be prepared to
get what you pay for. If you're a beginner, though, you have no use for a
spare
parts machine and these risks can be a real problem for you. Try to buy from
someone who knows.
You might need a new sponge bar
If the machine has not been used for a few years, it will probably need a
part replaced. The "needle retaining bar" or "sponge bar" is a special metal
strip lined with a thick sponge strip that holds the needles down into their
position on the machine bed.
Being sponge, the material deteriorates over time whether it's used or not.
It is not normally visible, and it sends no cry of despair to its storage
custodians, it just silently sits there and collapses. In extreme cases when
it disintegrates completely, it can become like peanut butter or sand or
both, dropping off inside and clogging the mechanism while the outside still
looks beautiful.
If the seller specifically states that it has a new sponge bar and
also can say how recently it was replaced, it's probably OK. But
generally, be prepared to replace it when you buy an old machine.
The right sponge bar for your machine can probably be purchased new for
under $40, and some people have successfully re-made their own using the old
metal strip as the base (so don't throw them away!). Most manuals show you
how to remove this bar in order to replace a needle, on the last couple of
pages. Basically it just pushes out, with care, but there's a trick to
getting it back in.
Here again, being in contact with other knitters through a guild
association or club is important. Your ancient sponge bar might still be OK
after all. On the other hand, the previous owner might have been using a
deflated sponge bar
without knowing that was the cause of their difficulty. None of the manuals
ever
told people that these need replacing!
Postage
Don't let shipping costs take you (and the seller!) by surprise, because
they can be higher than the cost of the machine. These are long heavy
devices that are not real easy to ship unless they have absolutely no extras
with them. They weigh well over 10kg, sometimes double that, and they
stretch the bounds of what Aussie Post accepts in length and sometimes
weight as well. Personal pickup is ideal of course. I have met a seller at
her nearest rail station and got help from fellow passengers, but I wouldn't
like to do that too often.
I've had no problems with posted machines, but I do try to leave exposed the
case's handle so the poor bloke can carry it. Busfreight (it's on the web)
has done a great job for me at a reasonable price door to door, and
couriers, well it can be tricky unless one of you has an account with them.
What about ribbers?
Ribbers turn a single bed machine into a double bed machine, allowing knit
and purl stitches so that ribs and related stitch patterns can be produced.
You will want a ribber sooner or later, but you can make do without it while
knitting your first dozen garments.
For the Japanese machines (Singer, Brother) the ribber was never part of the
machine, but rather, an expensive option. When you're not used to looking at
knitting machines, the ribber can look almost the same as a knitting
machine, just a little simpler, and sellers have sometimes innocently
thought that they were the knitting machine itself. When you buy a machine
with a ribber, you will get two parcels of roughly similar size and weight.
------------------------------------------------------
See the related Guide:
Knitting Machine True and False
for more information, including a list of the basic components you should
expect.
If you are already a machine knitter, you might enjoy another guide,
Machine Knitting - Quick Latch Off Edging
------------------------------------------------------
Thank you :-)
More info will be added later, so check back now and then. Suggestions are
very welcome. I don't sell machines, so this is just sharing knowledge for
the good of all.
If you were pleased to find this Guide, do me a favour and click on the Yes
vote below. Happy knitting! :-)
Orignal From: Knitting Machines
Here's how to figure out what to look for, and what questions you might
need to ask before you bid.
First, get whatever advice is available
The best move you can make is to find some local machine knitters and get
their advice
before you start looking. Join a machine knitters guild or association. Most
states in Australia have one, and NZ machine knitters have a good active
national group. They will help you find machine knitters who meet close to
where you live.
Another way of contacting others is to join an email group which discusses
machine knitting, for example one of the Yahoo groups such as SouthKnit, or
visit reference sites such as Wikipedia, or browse the Machine Knitting
category on a web search engine or web directory. Try to visit a local
machine knitter and look at their machines to become more familiar with
their features. Most of us love encouraging people to get started!
Making some decisions
Would you prefer to buy a very cheap machine to use until you know
which features what you want, or to wait a bit longer for a well researched
purchase? Make sure that any
machine is complete and in good condition before buying, bargain or not.
There's no point battling with a machine that doesn't work right,
so a temporary first machine still needs to be in excellent working order,
though it's OK for it to be lacking in features.
If you have no-one to advise you, consider purchasing a standard punch card
machine, either Brother (e.g. models 820 - 860) or Singer (e.g. 321 - 360,
260, 280), which has been used recently and is complete and in excellent
condition. You don't want mechanical problems when
you're learning. Or any time for that matter! Bear in mind that a lot of
second hand punch card machines, like the Singer 321 for example, were made
as early as 1970. A machine that has been used through each of those 35
years might be in better working condition than one which has been stored in
a garage for a few years. Damp and dust are real bad news, and the slightest
bit of rust, especially on needles, is no good for you, unless you only want
the machine for spare parts.
Alternatives
Of course you might have a reason to buy a different type of machine, or an
older machine without automatic patterning. For example, we often see
Empisal 680 models for sale, and some of them are in great condition despite
their age. They have eight push-buttons instead of punch cards for stitch
patterning. Even if the buttons are still patterning properly (a common problem),
you will eventually find that re-setting the buttons before each pattern stitch
row becomes a
real pain. But for learning and doing plain stocking stitch,
they can be perfectly adequate for a while.
These machines can be found at very low prices indeed, and are often
discarded because not many people want them when there's so many cheap punch
card machines around. You might pick one up in mint condition for a song!
Has this particular machine been well looked after?
There are some clues as to whether a machine might be as well preserved as
suggested. Not always reliable, but they can add up to give you the picture.
How fastidious is the owner seem to be? Does it still have all manuals and
its original outer cardboard shell in reasonable condition for its age?
You'll need the manuals, and the preserved cardboard carton
indicates to you the owner's fastidiousness. Are its components / features
listed knowledgeably? Is it pictured hastily propped up for a sale, or as an
appreciated part of a lived-in looking room or craft space? Has the owner
enjoyed using it enough to purchase optional accessories? (Check their other
auctions too.) Ask how old it is,
where and how it has been stored, and how long since
it has been regularly used.
It doesn't hurt to write to the seller and get an idea of the machine's
history, and the seller's knowledge, before you bid. If they can confirm
that it is complete and working, or can tick off the parts against the
manual, or say they wouldn't have a clue, you can begin to
estimate your likelihood of happiness.
Making sure it's all there
Machines usually lose a little piece or two over the years, and can acquire
mysterious incompatible extras too! You can't knit with 95% of a knitting
machine.
The instruction books, or manuals, will itemise everything including
what should be in the plastic tool box. You might be offered a lot more than
what came with the new machine, e.g. extra patterned or blank punch cards
and a punch, books, patterns, wool winder, ribber, attachments, cones of yarn.
Sellers are usually very up front about their
knowledge level, so ask questions, calculate your risks, and be prepared to
get what you pay for. If you're a beginner, though, you have no use for a
spare
parts machine and these risks can be a real problem for you. Try to buy from
someone who knows.
You might need a new sponge bar
If the machine has not been used for a few years, it will probably need a
part replaced. The "needle retaining bar" or "sponge bar" is a special metal
strip lined with a thick sponge strip that holds the needles down into their
position on the machine bed.
Being sponge, the material deteriorates over time whether it's used or not.
It is not normally visible, and it sends no cry of despair to its storage
custodians, it just silently sits there and collapses. In extreme cases when
it disintegrates completely, it can become like peanut butter or sand or
both, dropping off inside and clogging the mechanism while the outside still
looks beautiful.
If the seller specifically states that it has a new sponge bar and
also can say how recently it was replaced, it's probably OK. But
generally, be prepared to replace it when you buy an old machine.
The right sponge bar for your machine can probably be purchased new for
under $40, and some people have successfully re-made their own using the old
metal strip as the base (so don't throw them away!). Most manuals show you
how to remove this bar in order to replace a needle, on the last couple of
pages. Basically it just pushes out, with care, but there's a trick to
getting it back in.
Here again, being in contact with other knitters through a guild
association or club is important. Your ancient sponge bar might still be OK
after all. On the other hand, the previous owner might have been using a
deflated sponge bar
without knowing that was the cause of their difficulty. None of the manuals
ever
told people that these need replacing!
Postage
Don't let shipping costs take you (and the seller!) by surprise, because
they can be higher than the cost of the machine. These are long heavy
devices that are not real easy to ship unless they have absolutely no extras
with them. They weigh well over 10kg, sometimes double that, and they
stretch the bounds of what Aussie Post accepts in length and sometimes
weight as well. Personal pickup is ideal of course. I have met a seller at
her nearest rail station and got help from fellow passengers, but I wouldn't
like to do that too often.
I've had no problems with posted machines, but I do try to leave exposed the
case's handle so the poor bloke can carry it. Busfreight (it's on the web)
has done a great job for me at a reasonable price door to door, and
couriers, well it can be tricky unless one of you has an account with them.
What about ribbers?
Ribbers turn a single bed machine into a double bed machine, allowing knit
and purl stitches so that ribs and related stitch patterns can be produced.
You will want a ribber sooner or later, but you can make do without it while
knitting your first dozen garments.
For the Japanese machines (Singer, Brother) the ribber was never part of the
machine, but rather, an expensive option. When you're not used to looking at
knitting machines, the ribber can look almost the same as a knitting
machine, just a little simpler, and sellers have sometimes innocently
thought that they were the knitting machine itself. When you buy a machine
with a ribber, you will get two parcels of roughly similar size and weight.
------------------------------------------------------
See the related Guide:
Knitting Machine True and False
for more information, including a list of the basic components you should
expect.
If you are already a machine knitter, you might enjoy another guide,
Machine Knitting - Quick Latch Off Edging
------------------------------------------------------
Thank you :-)
More info will be added later, so check back now and then. Suggestions are
very welcome. I don't sell machines, so this is just sharing knowledge for
the good of all.
If you were pleased to find this Guide, do me a favour and click on the Yes
vote below. Happy knitting! :-)
Orignal From: Knitting Machines
Dendrobium (Australian) Orchids Growing Guide
Dendrobium Orchids
(If you read and learn from this guide then please comment below. Voting motivates us to write more!)
Welcome to the fragrant, colourful world of Australian Indigenous orchids.
These challenging and highly attractive orchids are unique to Eastern and South eastern Australia. As such they in most cases do not require the demanding temperatures and high humidity that most other exotic orchids require.In the wild most grow as either Epiphytes (Growing on the outside of other trees and shrubs on their bark) or as Lithophytes (Growing on wet cliff faces and boulders). In most cases the roots of the orchids are covered with the ferns and mosses that also inhabit these spots so they rarely if ever dry out completely. These same ferns and mosses also add plenty of humidity to the air around the orchids, so a damp airy atmosphere is the most suited ( bright,fernery conditions). The locations in the wild where they occur are usually quite bright as few other plants grow under the same conditions. Australian epiphytic orchids enjoy bright but definitely not hot positions. A gentle shadow should be seen when placing your hand over the top of the plant. Dark wet conditions will allow rots to occur and blooms to become spotty with fungal infections.So where to grow them?I recommend a special orchid growing house that has shade cloth sides to allow ventilation and also keep out the bugs, and a hard clear plastic roof to stop drenching winter rains spoiling the blooms and drowning the roots.If this is a bit grandiose, then on a veranda or pergola facing north to enjoy the winter sun. Native orchids enjoy winter sun but would prefer more shade in the warmer months. Under the eaves of the north side of the house is also a suitable location. Remember though to keep them off the soil or worms will enter and destroy the specially formulated orchid compost.How often to water?Basically just keep them moist all year , although they will enjoy a dry spell in mid winter when the buds are forming for spring. If in pots, check the drain holes to see if damp, you will soon learn how often to water. It may be daily in summer but only fortnightly in winter.Should I feed my natives?If you can be bothered try applying liquid fertilisers mixed in a watering can and simply pour it over the top of the plant foliage and all. One gram of most fertilisers per litre of water fortnightly in spring and summer will give results.Usually one gram of most fertilisers per litre of water fortnightly in spring and summer will give your orchid a kick along. Be careful though to not apply too much Nitrogen after February as you will retard the blooming with too much growth.We use and recommend 'Peter's Excel Hi K 'When to repot?I recommend you repot only when the plant is ready to split the plastic pot! Pot bound native orchids bloom prolifically. If you have to repot or you wish to divide then October is the most suitable time.Should I divide the native?Basically no. Only divide it if a friend has been annoying you for a division or you wish to make a little pocket money by selling your excess plants.Simply split the plant into halves,quarters or minimum 5 cane pieces. Kingianum style hybrids and kingianum itself can be divided down to single canes (Be careful)What to pot into?I recommend chipped pine bark that has been professionally composted or aged, preferably also laced with Dolomite lime. Each capital city has it's own supplier. In Victoria I recommend Debco 5-10mm bark straight.
More and more people are now using
Orignal From: Dendrobium (Australian) Orchids Growing Guide
(If you read and learn from this guide then please comment below. Voting motivates us to write more!)
Welcome to the fragrant, colourful world of Australian Indigenous orchids.
These challenging and highly attractive orchids are unique to Eastern and South eastern Australia. As such they in most cases do not require the demanding temperatures and high humidity that most other exotic orchids require.In the wild most grow as either Epiphytes (Growing on the outside of other trees and shrubs on their bark) or as Lithophytes (Growing on wet cliff faces and boulders). In most cases the roots of the orchids are covered with the ferns and mosses that also inhabit these spots so they rarely if ever dry out completely. These same ferns and mosses also add plenty of humidity to the air around the orchids, so a damp airy atmosphere is the most suited ( bright,fernery conditions). The locations in the wild where they occur are usually quite bright as few other plants grow under the same conditions. Australian epiphytic orchids enjoy bright but definitely not hot positions. A gentle shadow should be seen when placing your hand over the top of the plant. Dark wet conditions will allow rots to occur and blooms to become spotty with fungal infections.So where to grow them?I recommend a special orchid growing house that has shade cloth sides to allow ventilation and also keep out the bugs, and a hard clear plastic roof to stop drenching winter rains spoiling the blooms and drowning the roots.If this is a bit grandiose, then on a veranda or pergola facing north to enjoy the winter sun. Native orchids enjoy winter sun but would prefer more shade in the warmer months. Under the eaves of the north side of the house is also a suitable location. Remember though to keep them off the soil or worms will enter and destroy the specially formulated orchid compost.How often to water?Basically just keep them moist all year , although they will enjoy a dry spell in mid winter when the buds are forming for spring. If in pots, check the drain holes to see if damp, you will soon learn how often to water. It may be daily in summer but only fortnightly in winter.Should I feed my natives?If you can be bothered try applying liquid fertilisers mixed in a watering can and simply pour it over the top of the plant foliage and all. One gram of most fertilisers per litre of water fortnightly in spring and summer will give results.Usually one gram of most fertilisers per litre of water fortnightly in spring and summer will give your orchid a kick along. Be careful though to not apply too much Nitrogen after February as you will retard the blooming with too much growth.We use and recommend 'Peter's Excel Hi K 'When to repot?I recommend you repot only when the plant is ready to split the plastic pot! Pot bound native orchids bloom prolifically. If you have to repot or you wish to divide then October is the most suitable time.Should I divide the native?Basically no. Only divide it if a friend has been annoying you for a division or you wish to make a little pocket money by selling your excess plants.Simply split the plant into halves,quarters or minimum 5 cane pieces. Kingianum style hybrids and kingianum itself can be divided down to single canes (Be careful)What to pot into?I recommend chipped pine bark that has been professionally composted or aged, preferably also laced with Dolomite lime. Each capital city has it's own supplier. In Victoria I recommend Debco 5-10mm bark straight.
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Orignal From: Dendrobium (Australian) Orchids Growing Guide
Gel Nails Vs Acrylic Nails - Which is Better?
Hi, Im a fully qualified Hairdresser and
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Orignal From: Gel Nails Vs Acrylic Nails - Which is Better?
Cymbidium Orchids Growing Guide
Cymbidiums
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Cymbidium orchids originate from the higher altitudes of Countries through out Sth East Asia. Certain Cymbidium species grow as far south as Merimbula in far Southern NSW Australia Hybridised by man, for over 100 years, the range of colour, size, growth and shape is now very different from the original species.
Orignal From: Cymbidium Orchids Growing Guide
If you read and learn from this guide then please comment below. Voting motivates us to write more!
Cymbidium orchids originate from the higher altitudes of Countries through out Sth East Asia. Certain Cymbidium species grow as far south as Merimbula in far Southern NSW Australia Hybridised by man, for over 100 years, the range of colour, size, growth and shape is now very different from the original species.
Orignal From: Cymbidium Orchids Growing Guide
What is OEM software and can i buy it?
What is OEM software?It stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer. In terms of Windows it refers to cheaper versions of its products with simple packaging, and reduced support. Can i buy it?The software is made available to 'system builders' and by Microsoft definition it is an "original equipment manufacturer, an assembler, refurbisher, or pre-installer of software on computer systems."Most users of OEM software on eBay fall under the last category of those that install software."Local OEM software packs are intended for PC and server manufacturers or assemblers ONLY. They are not intended for distribution to end users unless the end users are acting as local OEMs by assembling their own PC. " http://oem.microsoft.com/downloads/mosb_productguide/licensing/packaging.htmThis software is not intended for end users, the 'Joe Newbie' who does not know how to install software and needs the support the retail version provides.Microsoft says that people who purchase OEM software will simply be expected to abide by the terms of the licensing agreements. So why is it so cheap?Whenever you buy OEM you need to understand what you are getting. Microsoft OEM software don't come with pretty boxes, bundled trial software or printed materials like retail. However if you are interested in OEM software chances are you are not in need of what passes for a manual these days. And the pretty box... well, that's not really worth much anyway, is it? Rest assured, though; the software on the disc is the same as that found in any retail edition. OEM software can't be returned once opened. So if you bought it and need to return it, don't open it. Also the software is tied to the motherboard it is first installed on. While retail versions can be transfered from computer to computer, OEM versions are non-transferable. You can upgrade any other hardware you like but must keep the same motherboard.While some retail versions (eg Vista) come with both the 32 bit and the 64 bit versions, OEM versions are specific.Lastly there's support. As a system builder purchasing OEM you are your own support. Whenever the end user has a question they will come to you. Retail versions normally come with 30-90 days free support. There is also a paid support option from Microsoft if you need it but it is quite dear.
Orignal From: What is OEM software and can i buy it?
Orignal From: What is OEM software and can i buy it?
PLASTER CASTING FOR DUMMIES ;))
A SIMPLE GUIDE TO PLASTER CASTING.
IF U FIND THIS GUIDE HELPFUL PLEASE GIVE IT A VOTE .....IT'S AT THE BOTTOM :))
Plaster casting is fairly safe if you observe these safety rules when mixing.
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Orignal From: PLASTER CASTING FOR DUMMIES ;))
IF U FIND THIS GUIDE HELPFUL PLEASE GIVE IT A VOTE .....IT'S AT THE BOTTOM :))
Plaster casting is fairly safe if you observe these safety rules when mixing.
*
Orignal From: PLASTER CASTING FOR DUMMIES ;))
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